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How to Care for a Poinsettia: Keep It Colorful Through the Holidays and Get It to Rebloom Next Year

Poinsettia care made simple: how to pick a healthy plant, the right light, temperature and watering, whether it is really toxic to pets, and the month-by-month calendar to make it rebloom.

Last updated: November 12, 2026. This guide draws on published advice from university extension programs, the Missouri Botanical Garden, the ASPCA, Pet Poison Helpline and Poison Control, and is not affiliated with any of them. Where sources give different numbers, we show the range. If a pet or child eats part of a plant and you are worried, call your veterinarian or Poison Control (1-800-222-1222 in the US).

To keep a poinsettia colorful through the holidays, give it bright, indirect light for about six hours a day, keep it at normal room temperature (roughly 60-70°F, never below 50°F), away from drafts and heat vents, and water only when the soil surface feels dry, always letting excess water drain out of the foil wrap. Do not fertilize while it is in bloom. Do that, and most plants hold their color well into the new year.

Poinsettias are the top-selling flowering potted plant in the US, according to Mississippi State University Extension, and Clemson’s Home & Garden Information Center puts US sales at more than 70 million plants a year. Yet many end up dropping leaves before Christmas. Here is how to choose a good one, keep it healthy, and, if you want a project, get it to color up again next December.

Poinsettia Care at a Glance

Need What to do
Light Bright, indirect light, at least about 6 hours a day
Day temperature About 60-72°F (16-22°C), depending on the source
Night temperature About 55-65°F (13-18°C); never below 50°F (10°C)
Water When the soil surface is dry; water thoroughly, then empty the saucer or foil
Fertilizer None while blooming
Avoid Cold drafts, cold windowpanes, heaters, heat vents, soggy soil
Pets Mildly toxic; may cause drooling or vomiting, rarely serious

How to Choose a Healthy Poinsettia at the Store

The colorful “petals” are actually bracts, modified leaves. The true flowers are the small yellow buds in the center, called cyathia. They tell you how fresh the plant is.

  • Check the center. Choose plants whose yellow cyathia are unopened or only partly open, with little or no visible pollen. Once pollen is shed, the plant tends to drop bracts and leaves sooner (University of Illinois Extension, Clemson HGIC).
  • Look at the leaves. Dark green foliage all the way down to the soil is a good sign. Check under the leaves for whiteflies and aphids (Mississippi State University Extension).
  • Skip plants that have been sleeved for days. Plants left in plastic sleeves for several days or longer decline faster (MSU Extension).
  • Protect it on the trip home. Keep the plant wrapped in cold weather. Poinsettias show stress below 50°F, and even short exposure to cold can damage them.

Light and Temperature

Place the plant where it gets bright, indirect light, such as near a sunny window but not touching the glass. Clemson recommends at least six hours of bright, indirect light a day.

Recommended temperatures differ slightly by source:

  • MSU Extension: days of 68-72°F (20-22°C), nights of 60-65°F (16-18°C), never below 50°F (10°C).
  • Clemson HGIC: days at or below 70°F (21°C); temperatures below 50°F cause leaf drop.
  • University of Illinois Extension: days of 60-70°F and nights around 55°F (13°C).

In practice, a normal heated home is fine, as the Missouri Botanical Garden notes, as long as the plant is away from cold drafts from doors, heat vents, radiators and fireplaces.

How to Water a Poinsettia

Overwatering is one of the most common causes of early leaf and bract drop, according to MSU Extension. Follow this routine:

  1. Feel the soil surface. Water only when it is dry to the touch.
  2. Remove the decorative foil, or poke drainage holes in it, so water can escape.
  3. Water thoroughly until it runs out of the bottom of the pot.
  4. Empty the saucer or foil so the pot never sits in water.

Don’t let the potting mix dry out completely, either (Clemson). Small plants in 4-inch pots dry out faster than plants in 6- to 8-inch pots, so check them more often. Skip fertilizer while the plant is in bloom; MSU, Clemson and Illinois all agree on that.

Why Is My Poinsettia Dropping Leaves?

Symptom Likely cause Fix
Sudden leaf drop Cold below 50°F or a cold draft Move away from doors, windows and drafty spots
Yellowing lower leaves, wet soil Overwatering or water trapped in the foil Let the soil surface dry; open the foil to drain
Wilting, leaves dropping Too much heat or a dry spell Move away from heat sources; water when the surface is dry
Bracts dropping, yellow pollen visible Natural aging of the flowers Normal late in the season; enjoy it while it lasts
Pale, leggy growth Too little light Move to a brighter spot with indirect light

Clemson lists temperatures below 50°F, too much heat, poor light and poor nutrition as the main causes of leaf drop.

Are Poinsettias Poisonous to Cats, Dogs and Children?

Poinsettias are far less dangerous than their reputation suggests, but they are not harmless.

  • Pets: The ASPCA lists poinsettias as toxic to dogs, cats and horses because the milky sap irritates the mouth and stomach and sometimes causes vomiting, but also calls the plant “generally over-rated in toxicity.” Pet Poison Helpline rates it “only mildly toxic,” with signs such as drooling, vomiting and, rarely, diarrhea, which usually resolve on their own.
  • People: Poison Control says poinsettias “can be irritating” but are “not fatal if eaten.” Possible effects include mouth irritation, nausea, vomiting and a skin rash from the sap.
  • Latex allergy: The sap can cause reactions in people with latex allergies (University of Illinois Extension, NC State Extension, UF/IFAS). Wear gloves when pruning.
  • Eyes: NC State Extension warns that sap in the eyes can cause corneal damage, so wash your hands after handling and keep sap away from your face.

The “deadly poinsettia” myth goes back to an unconfirmed report of a child’s death around 1919-1920, according to University of Missouri Extension, which also cites a 1995 review of more than 20,000 exposure cases in which over 90% had no ill effects and there were no deaths. Even so, keep plants out of reach of pets and small children, and call a vet or Poison Control if you are concerned. Helplines: ASPCA Animal Poison Control (888) 426-4435 and Pet Poison Helpline (855) 764-7661; both may charge a fee.

How to Get a Poinsettia to Rebloom Next Year

Poinsettias set color in response to long nights. Getting one to rebloom at home takes patience and strict darkness in the fall, but it is doable. Here is a calendar based on MSU, Clemson, Illinois and NC State guidance. Exact dates vary by source and climate, so we show ranges.

When What to do
January-March Keep in bright light and water when the surface is dry. Begin feeding with a balanced fertilizer after the holidays, about every 2-4 weeks (MSU, Clemson).
March-May Cut stems back to about 4-8 inches once frost has passed (Illinois says about May 1 and 4-6 inches; MSU and NC State say 6-8 inches).
Late spring Repot into a container 2-4 inches larger (Clemson suggests early June). Move outdoors to partial shade once nights stay above about 50-55°F.
Summer Pinch shoot tips every few weeks to keep the plant bushy, leaving about four leaves per shoot. Stop pinching by mid-August (Illinois) or September 1 (MSU, Clemson).
September Bring indoors before nights drop to about 55-60°F.
About October 1 Start the darkness treatment: about 14 hours of uninterrupted darkness each night (for example 5 p.m. to 8 a.m. in a closet or under a box), with 6-8 hours of bright light during the day.
October-early December Continue for roughly 8-10 weeks. NC State says color appears in about 6-8 weeks. Stop the treatment once bracts are well colored.

The most common reason reblooming fails is light at night. MSU Extension notes that even small amounts of light, such as a lamp or streetlight, can prevent flowering, and UF/IFAS advises keeping plants away from artificial light at night in the fall. Illinois also warns that nights warmer than 70-75°F can delay or prevent color. One source, the Missouri Botanical Garden, says at least 12 hours of darkness, so 14 hours is the safer target.

Growing Poinsettias Outdoors

Poinsettias are native to Mexico, where they grow into shrubs that can reach 10 feet or more. They can live outdoors year-round only in USDA hardiness zones 9-11 (NC State Extension, Missouri Botanical Garden), and even there they need protection from frost. Everywhere else, treat them as a houseplant that can spend summer outside.

A Little Poinsettia History

The plant is named after Joel Roberts Poinsett, the first US minister to Mexico, who introduced it to the United States in 1828 (MSU, Clemson, University of Missouri). Mississippi State University Extension notes that December 12 is National Poinsettia Day. Red remains the dominant color, but there are more than 100 varieties, according to University of Illinois Extension, including white, pink, marbled and speckled types.

FAQ

How long do poinsettias last?

With good light, steady temperatures and careful watering, a healthy plant can keep its color for weeks after the holidays. Choosing one with unopened yellow centers gives you the longest display.

How often should I water a poinsettia?

There is no fixed schedule. Check the soil every couple of days and water when the surface feels dry. Smaller pots need water more often.

Can I keep a poinsettia near a window?

Yes, if the leaves do not touch cold glass and there is no draft. Bright, indirect light is ideal.

Should I fertilize my poinsettia in December?

No. Extension sources agree not to fertilize while the plant is in bloom. Start after the holidays if you plan to keep it.

Why didn’t my poinsettia turn red again?

Usually because of light during the long-night period in fall. The plant needs about 14 hours of total darkness every night for roughly 8-10 weeks starting around October 1.

Bottom Line

Pick a plant with tight yellow centers, keep it in bright indirect light and away from drafts, and water only when the soil surface is dry with good drainage. That covers the holiday season. If you want to keep it, follow the cut-back, summer-pinch and October darkness routine above. For another holiday bloom project, see our guide on how to grow amaryllis for Christmas, and if you also grow summer flowers, read how to store dahlia tubers for winter.

Sources

  • Mississippi State University Extension, “Selecting and Maintaining Poinsettias”
  • Clemson Cooperative Extension Home & Garden Information Center, “Poinsettia”
  • University of Illinois Extension, poinsettia information sheet
  • NC State Extension Plant Toolbox, Euphorbia pulcherrima
  • Missouri Botanical Garden Plant Finder, Euphorbia pulcherrima
  • UF/IFAS Gardening Solutions, “Poinsettia”
  • University of Missouri Extension, “Toxic poinsettias a myth”
  • ASPCA Animal Poison Control, “Poinsettia”; Pet Poison Helpline; Poison Control (poison.org), “Poinsettias”
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