Last updated: November 8, 2026. Bloom timing depends on the bulb, your home’s warmth and light, so use the ranges below as guides. This guide draws on published advice from two university extension programs and is not affiliated with either. All parts of the amaryllis are poisonous to people and pets if eaten, so keep it out of reach.
An amaryllis is one of the easiest ways to get a spectacular indoor bloom in winter. A single bulb sends up a tall stalk topped with several huge flowers, and with a little care the same bulb can bloom again next year. If you want flowers around Christmas, early to mid-November is the time to start. Clemson Cooperative Extension says flowers can be expected in about 4 to 8 weeks when bulbs are planted in early to mid-November, so planting this week or next puts the display in December or early January.
The Short Version
- Pot size: 1 to 2 inches wider than the bulb, with drainage holes.
- Depth: leave one-third to one-half of the bulb above the soil.
- Water thoroughly once, wait about a week, then keep the soil slightly moist.
- Give it a warm, bright spot with several hours of sun and rotate the pot.
- After blooming, keep the foliage growing, then rest the bulb for 8 to 10 weeks before restarting.
What You Need
- A healthy, firm bulb with no soft spots or mold (bigger bulbs generally produce more stalks)
- A pot with drainage holes, heavy enough not to tip when the stalk grows tall
- Well-drained potting mix; Clemson describes equal parts peat and perlite as excellent, and Illinois Extension recommends a soilless mix
- A stake for heavy stalks, if needed
How to Plant an Amaryllis Bulb, Step by Step
- Pick the pot. Choose a pot about 1 to 2 inches larger than the widest part of the bulb. Clemson notes amaryllis bulbs thrive slightly rootbound, so avoid a big pot.
- Add mix and set the bulb. Place the bulb with its roots down and the pointed end up. Fill around it so that about one-third to one-half of the bulb stays above the mix (Illinois Extension says the upper half). Keeping the top dry helps prevent rot and red blotch.
- Water once, thoroughly. Let the excess drain and never leave the pot sitting in water.
- Wait about a week. Then keep the soil slightly moist, watering when the surface feels dry, and water more often once the flower stalk appears and grows.
- Place it in warmth and light. Clemson suggests 70 to 75°F while roots and leaves form and at least four hours of direct sun a day, such as a south window, away from heaters and vents. Rotate the pot every few days to keep the stalk straight.
Caring for the Plant While It Blooms
- Stake tall stalks. Heavy flower heads can lean or tip the pot. If a stalk bends badly, cut it and put it in a vase; Clemson says the flowers keep blooming.
- Prolong the flowers. Once buds show color, Illinois Extension recommends moving the plant out of direct sun. Clemson says cooler temperatures around 65°F help the blooms last longer.
- Do not feed a bulb with no leaves. Clemson warns fertilizer can damage the roots at that stage. Start feeding once leaves are growing.
After the Flowers Fade: Keeping the Bulb for Next Year
- Cut the spent stalk. Remove faded flowers so the plant does not waste energy on seed. Clemson says to cut the stem just above the bulb once the blossoms fade, and leave the leaves.
- Feed the leaves. Keep the plant in a sunny window, keep the soil slightly moist and feed twice a month with diluted liquid houseplant fertilizer while it grows.
- Move it outdoors in warm weather. Illinois Extension suggests moving the pot gradually to full sun, at least 5 to 6 hours daily, and bringing it in before the first fall frost. Acclimate it slowly to avoid leaf burn.
- Rest the bulb. In fall, stop watering and fertilizing for 8 to 10 weeks while the leaves yellow and dry. Illinois Extension says to move the pot to a dark place and restart after about 8 weeks.
- Restart. When the top of a new flower bud appears, move the pot to a sunny spot, resume watering and remove dry foliage.
Timing the rest so that restarting falls in early November leads to holiday flowers again. Gardeners handling other bulbs this season can compare with our guides to planting tulip bulbs in fall and storing dahlia tubers for winter, and our tips for bringing houseplants indoors for winter.
Common Problems
- No flowers: The bulb may not have rested long enough, may be too small, or did not get enough light and leaf growth the previous year.
- Soft or rotting bulb: Usually overwatering or burying too much of the bulb. Reduce water and keep the top of the bulb dry.
- Tall, floppy stalk: Too little light or too much warmth. Provide more sun and stake the stalk.
- Red blotch on leaves or bulb: Clemson links it to the bulb’s neck staying wet. Keep the top of the bulb dry.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does an amaryllis take to bloom?
Clemson Extension says about 4 to 8 weeks when planted in early to mid-November.
Do amaryllis bulbs need to be chilled?
The sources reviewed do not require chilling for a first bloom from a purchased bulb. For reblooming, the key step is the 8 to 10 week rest with no water.
Is amaryllis safe around cats and dogs?
No. Clemson says all parts are poisonous to people and pets if eaten in large quantities, and the bulb is the most toxic part.
Can I plant an amaryllis in the garden?
Clemson says it is hardy to USDA Zone 8 in South Carolina, so it depends on your climate. In colder zones, grow it in a pot and bring it indoors.
Sources
- Clemson Cooperative Extension, Home and Garden Information Center, “Amaryllis” (HGIC 1551, revised February 2024)
- University of Illinois Extension, “Forcing Amaryllis for the Holidays” (December 2014)
